Cetinje

For a cultural trip, head up the winding mountain road to Cetinje, Montenegro's former royal capital. Cetinje established in 1482 when Ivan Crnojevic, the last ruler of the medieval state of Zeta, moved his followers to this inaccessible plateau to more easily protect his state from conquerors. The great grey stone hills which encircle this ancient town have acted as a natural defence, and for centuries the proud and fearless inhabitants of Cetinje resisted numerous aggressors and were never conquered. To the Montenegrin people Cetinje and Mount Lovcen are symbols of the nation and state, created in the long struggle for independence and freedom. For the best view of the old Montenegrin capital and its rocky surround make the short climb to Orlov Krs (Eagle's rock).

Under Nikola Petrovic, Montenegro's final king, Cetinje flourished, particularly after being officially recognised as an independent state in 1878. Although Cetinje was the smallest European capital it boasted many foreign embassies. Much of old Cetinje still remains, although it now has a timeworn look and the air of a sleepy ghost town. The modest palace of Montenegro's last monarch is now the State Museum with a collection of old uniforms, medals, guns, flags and swords. Stately mansions formerly housing embassies are academies, museums, a restaurant and a library. The British, French, Turkish and Austro-Hungarian embassies are protected as historical landmarks. The largest building in Montenegro, the old Government House, now accommodates the National Museum and Art Gallery, where the beautiful 'Madonna of Philermos' icon is now on display.

Cetinje Monastery dates from the time of the city's founding. Locked in its small chapel lies what is alleged to be the right hand of John the baptist as well as a fragment from the crucifixion cross. The treasury museum here also houses many artifacts which provide an interesting historical record of the town's turbulent history.